r/techsupport • u/Arcanu • Nov 14 '22
"Help me Techsupport, you're my only hope" cut patch/ethernet cable, tester says OK, no internet [pictures] Open | Networking
**Intro:** Before creating this support ticket, if I may call it that way, I had the scene from the Star Wars movie in my head, where Leia creat the hologram for Obi-Wan.This thread feels like my last hope indeed, because I created two diffirent threads in German communities, people had a few ideas, but nothing worked.
tl:dr; Added new end with a kit to a ethernet cable, the tester shows OK, but my PC has no internet, when using the new cable.
**Story:** Moved into a new appartment and after having a cable across the hallway for a few months, I decided to drill two holes, use the existing cable canals for power lines and guide my new cable through the walls to the PC.
Label on cable: Cat7 S/FTP 600 MHz Patch Kabel 4x2xAWG26-LSZH (20meters, 65 feet)
The first pictures show, why I had to do so and the second one has multiple pictures of the cable and the tester.The issue: The tester runs down from 1 to 8 on both ends, the ground doesn't blink, but my PC has no internet, the icon tray shows the globe instead of the internet icon.
Question:
- Do you have any idea what is going on? Is the tester wrong? Is it maybe software/setting based issue?
- Should I also redo the orginal end, which goes into the router?
- There is RJ45 T-568a and T-568b, I have b, because orange is pin1. Both ends of are T-568b,
- My end is missing the metal part, therefor the tester don't show ground BUT I think I can ignore that, because there are other cables without ground. Maybe the networkcard (mainboard) knows that I have Cat7 cable plugedin, it notices that ground is missing and therefor it doesn't work. Maybe all Cat7 cables must have ground?
**Thank you!** Thank you for your time reading, I hope you can help me out. Feel really sad, because I need a lot of motivation to do it and it seems very simple and now after that much work, the cable is not working.Do you need any more information?
I am confused about: The cable has 8 wires, which are in 4 pairs. Each pair is shielded through a foil. The green & white and blue & white made me some troubles, blue's white goes with green and same thing with the green pair. After I add et the new end of the cable, the tester showed me 1-2-5-4-3-6-7-8.
3
u/ITfactotum Nov 14 '22
Step one: Do the lights on client device network socket light up with new cable? If Yes. Restart the device that is the client (PC)
Step two: Restart the Router.
No joy?
Step three: Cable
How you crimp the ends on the rj45 as in the pattern of colours you use doesn't matter in the slightest in relation to it working to link your PC to the router.
As long as they are the same on both ends, if the connector is wired the same on both ends it should test as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 and work just fine.
The pattern becomes more important when you are wiring to sockets and panels etc as it allows you to be sure of what pattern is being used and maintain consistency.
If your tester is showing 1 to 8 in order - check that off
If your tester has a mode where all cable lights will come on at once pop that on and check that when you give the cable ends a wiggle around all the lights stay on (checking for bad crimp/connector etc.)
If that's working then it would seem the cable is not the issue.
Then I would go back to client device - PC. Have you ever set your IP manually? If not the connection should be on DCHP, does it show a connection or an IP in windows?
Does the router you are using have many ports? have you tried other ports on the router? Like the one that the old cable was in that worked?
Let us know.
3
u/TheOtherSide5840 Nov 14 '22
The crimp end does not appear to be correct. The pairs are important and need to stay in sync on both ends. There are technical / performance issues for this which we won't go into here - Google is your friend if you want to find out why. When you untwist the pairs to crimp you only get .5" from the last twist in each pair to the crimp point (little metal prongs in the crimp connector pieces so don't untwist more than necessary when you are crimping the ends. There are two specs A & B (T568A & T568B). I suggest you use spec B. The important wires are 1, 2, 3, & 6 but go ahead and crimp them all. Make sure you are not crimping the lines upside down. Again Google it to make sure you know which end is line 1.
1 - White / Orange (White cable with orange stripe)
2 - Orange
3 - White / Green
4 - Blue
5 - White / Blue
6 - Green
7 - White / Brown
8 - Brown
Yes the Green pair is not next to each other but is split on pins 3 & 6.
Edited to make the list easier to read.
4
u/kurios182 Nov 14 '22
Have you reset the network on the pc? Have you tested the ethernet cabel in another computed? or the computer in another ethernet+port?
0
u/Arcanu Nov 14 '22
You need to reset the network, when pluging in a new ethernet cable? No. Can I easily find a tutorial on how to do so? I didn't have, because in my expirience ethernet cable always worked, therefor I think that I did some mistake with the cable.
I forgot to mention the LEDs on the network port, turns on after a second when pluging in the old intact cable, but they don't turn on when I plug in the new cable.
I will test the cable today with a notebook and post an update.5
u/smp4111 Nov 14 '22
If it works with a different cable then the new cable is the issue. Redo one end of the cable and test. If still not working, redo the other end.
2
u/Zandexo Nov 14 '22
I have some problems when i make my Ethernet cables, but it was only the ends ones that were bad makes. If you can get a Ethernet cable tester, and redo the ends a few times, that works for me
2
u/smp4111 Nov 14 '22
I've never made a cable that I didn't have to redo one of the ends on. It's my personal quality control.
2
u/Zandexo Nov 14 '22
In some cases the cable will work even if one end is bad. The best is to check with a tool if signals are going where it has to go. At least it was what I do when I make cables 😛
2
1
u/kurios182 Nov 14 '22
Well, if you believe a theory or a better answer, don't ask for troubleshooting ideas.
I'm out.
0
u/Arcanu Nov 14 '22
I wrote that I will test it and give you an update. Why don't you want to help me anymore?
2
u/CreepyEntertainer Nov 14 '22
Take your pc into the other room and connect it to the other cable and see if you get internet, also use another port on the router with the original cable to make sure it is not a port on the router. The shielding on the rj-45 end should not make a difference in regards to ground. If it still doesn’t work I would redo both ends make sure you use b on both ends ow-o-gw-b-bw-g-bw-b. Make sure the pairs are fully inserted into the ends and you can see the ends of the pairs pushed all the way into the rj-45 and then crimp.
1
u/121e7watts Nov 16 '22
Very good answer - troubleshooting and all. (BTW, this is why I carry a 200 foot cat6 cable when I go out on service.
The only thing I would add to this is to make absolutely sure that:
1) The PC is set to an IP address that the router can reach (on the same subnet)
2) The firewall is turned off on the PC. I can't tell you how many times that has been the problem.
1
u/glidus Nov 14 '22
Hey in my case when I was switching cables I for some reason had to enable specific port on my main modem in order to gain access to internet and I basically spent 4 hours trying different stuff and redoing my connector until I found that I had to enable ports in order to let the data flow. I had it installed to the same port as it was before but something just disabled all the ports and I had to enable again. Hope this helps you.
1
u/TigwithIT Nov 16 '22
I double what the other side says you want to stick to 568b standard.
Cables are really straight forward, they are either correct or they are cut. If the ends are done correctly and there is no cut it should be fine.
6
u/Arcsane Nov 14 '22
Transfer should still work on Cat7 without ground, but you're not liable to get the full speed at the full distance supported for that cable spec (You should probably have no issue getting regular gigabit though).
You say Orange is Pin 1. Do you mean White/Orange? Also if both ends are T-568B, the tester should be showing 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, etc. Even if you're swapping wires around inside, if they're both the same pinout on the end, they should match up. I'd double check both ends match exactly. It sounds like you have probably have white/green and white blue swapped on one end or the other.