I have an Oppo Reno 5, it has what they call Flash Charging (65W) I think, but my mom likes to roll the charger whenever che sees it so the ends of the cables got ripped a bit and it doesn't charge quickly anymore, I have an unused Huawei nova 7i cable I can use but the phone charges at 40W max, so should I change it or nah ?
So basically I have this PC where one day when I was downloading and playing a game (pc getting heat up by it) suddenly my internet disconnected yet reconnects. It kept reconnecting each time. After a while I turned off PC also restarted/did research as well such as turning it off from the power management, some cmd lines, drivers reinstallation etc but what it fixed it was a format.
Fast forward days later, I play another game and after 15 minutes, it happened. I changed my Realtek Wireless Adapter into another USB port, drivers reinstallation..heck I think even format didn't work but eventually fixed it by doing the methods I listed randomly (I think turning it off was more of a fix)
I downloaded another Triple A game since this seemed to happen when I play some resource demanded games, and it happened again. Now the issue can't seem to fix. I troubleshoot and keeps doing it. I decided to install windows 10 from scratch since I thought maybe the OS was faulty since I remember doing a format before all this happened but the issue persisted. Actually made it way worst because from Windows 10 Pro it's now the standard version and lost all data.
Notes to include is that the realtek wireless adapter seems to work because before logging in. It flicks green lights and even the Wifi signal seems to be there but after logging in, it disappears. What's remaining from it is the disconnecting sound and connecting sound every second. I tried many methods from power management, formats, windows installation, cmd lines, drivers. Anything.
I have an Aorus fo48u on my desk connected through hdmi2.1 with its audio device disabled in windows.
Out of nowhere the speakers on the device start SCREAMING a high pitched buzz, I've never been so scared in my life. Turning the monitor off didn't stop it, pulling the power did.
I've now muted all audio functions in the monitors settings, hoping this wont happen again. At least the thing can get loud I guess...
Does anyone know what caused this?
so my Computer is randomly turning off it happens mainly during gaming but it also turned off once when i was simply browsing the net so what should i do the computer is a prebuilt and i have had it for around 2 years now my specs are
500w 80 plus bronze PSU
Edit: also here is a screenshot of GPU-Z sensors when under high load https://imgur.com/a/b60XOF9
I had to give my pc away to repair it and when it came back it seemed a bit slower than before but i didn't think much of it, now i went out of the country for a month and when i came back the PC was much much slower and i can't find anything about why it's underperforming so much. I don't remember all of the specs but i just remember i have an i7 10700 and an RTX 3070
Does anyone know the solution to this?
Am I hurting my laptop battery by leaving the computer plugged in 24/7? The original battery had the same problem. I had it replaced, and now the new battery is doing the same thing.
It happened to my printer few weeks ago. Its an Epson L220 and with program/driver, i cleaned the heck out of it even the print alignment thingy and its still there. I know nothing about hardware and am planning to fix this myself with some help from ya'll
As stated I went from a Gigabyte 1060 to an RoG Strix Geforce RTX 3060 and am seriously underwhelmed by everything but the stability of the card. Mind you I'm no tech wiz when it comes to PC's and how they actually work, so it could most definitely be one of my other components, however from what I'm finding online the rest of my kit should be good to go for the type of gaming I'm trying to do?
Here's the major things I'm aware of for my build:
Core i7 3770 RoG Strix Geforce RTX 3060 16Gb ddr3 RAM
Let me know if there's any other relevant information that might help.
Am I missing something here?
All I'm trying to achieve btw is 1080p 60fps+ gaming.
Also this is my first Reddit post so, hello. 👋
Hello all, hoping someone can help me here.
So for a few months now my laptop has been abruptly shutting off and I just can't figure it out. It doesn't shut down, or crash, just shuts right off, as of I were holding in the power button. Sometimes when it turns back on after it won't connect to the internet, as if my WiFi adapter doesn't exist, so I need to restart again so I can connect to there internet.
Here's what it isn't: The hard drive - Just replace with a brand new one. OS - did it on windows 8, then clean installed 10 and still happening Overheating - it can happen when I first bring it up, or after using for hours, happens when just idling on desktop sometimes.
Prior to replacing the hard drive I had run all the disk check and diagnostic tools to look for hardware errors and it always says nothing is found, but this has to be a hardware issue of some kind, right?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Alright, coming here to see if anybody has had this problem. I think my RAM is broken and when I use all four slots my computer will not start up, all the lights will turn on, Although no output will be sent to my monitor. (The ram light turns on on my mother board)
When I mix and match the ram to dual mode using slots 2 and 4 they both work fine and my pc shows that all the ram is there.
Is this a problem with my RAM or mother board for only supporting all 4 sticks of ram in a certain arrangement?
Open | Hardware hey guys i just got on my pc and i noticed that my computer is using one ram stick instead of both of my ram (2x4 built-in ram) what can i do?
i dont know what to do as im not a tech expert.
I got a text saying his frames were bad after he kicked his PC. I had a suspicion that when he kicked it, it severed the connection the thermal paste had with the cpu and heat sink. I went to his computer and checked msi afterburner and the cpu was at 99°C 30 seconds after booting.
I cracked the PC open and saw the fins clogged up and chunks of paste on the cpu. I went to reapply the thermal paste, but the crap intel heat sink was giving me trouble and I pressed down pretty hard but did not hear any creaking from the mobo. I went to turn the PC on again and I heard a hissing noise come from the cpu area and it turned itself off a second later.
I knew that wasn’t right so I went into test bench mode and removed everything except a stick of ram in the second slot, and the cpu/heatsink. I powered it on and the fan moved but then immediately shut off, making a clicking noise in the psu. I went to reseat the cpu and I discovered that one of the plastic pusher things from the heatsink that goes into the motherboard was broken off so it didn’t sit on it tight.
To remedy the broken heatsink I press down on it firmly to test if it would boot up correctly and it never did. I tried with a rm1000x from my pc and it still didn’t work. I did discover that when I had the 24pin plugged in the fan would spin for a second but if I also then plugged in the 8pin atx cpu cord it would on/off way quicker when I pressed power. Plugging in the 8pin along the 24pin from my power supply the fan never spun up. I also replaced the CMOS battery
I would really love some advice. I don’t know wether it’s the psu because the way it acts differently between mine and his, the cpu overheating insanely quick/broken, or the motherboard is bricked from being shorted or pressed on too hard.
Cpu: i5-4960k Mobo: H97M Pro4 Psu: 450w Corsair
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you
I bought a 3080ti a few weeks back and had a similar problem but I returned it and got a different one. This problem is only a thing when I load up a game, perfectly fine when I can only guess that the system isn't under a load. I also recently upgraded from a 9900k on a z390 board, to a 5900x on a x570 board from being told previously that it could be a bottle neck issue. While the problem is much less severe compared to before, I'm mad that it is still occurring.
Laptop- HP. 2 RAM slots, HP added Samsung 8gb 3200mhz ram in slot 2 idk why. Ordered a 16gb 3200mhz crucial stick, checked the same 2 weeks after the delivery. Was caught up in some family issues. FML.
Photos of the product
https://imgur.com/a/iFNAHZV No branding of crucial anywhere+the sticker of the crucial ram is on the below side as the ram was not able to get affixed if the sticker side was up.
Windows is not recognizing this ram at all
SPD 1 and 2
https://imgur.com/a/fsO1AsS See how the manufacturer name and other details are greyed out. Check that heart emoji in the part number box.
HwInfo main page
Fake Ram, again check part number
Now amazon won't help as the replacement period is over. Most likely crucial won't entertain this too. What should I do now? Is Windows not recognizing it because its a fake?
Tl;dr- 2 internal hard drives full of data have disappeared. I, a total noob, have tried everything, but nothing has worked. Any help is massively appreciated!
Let me preface this by saying that this is my first post here (now reposted), and I am an absolute luddite when it comes to technology, so apologies if I'm using the wrong terminology or post etiquette.
I am having a problem with both of my internal 3.5 inch HDDs in my PC. I've been trying to sort out this problem for a few weeks now, so I'll go through what went wrong first.
I use my PC as a media PC mainly for streaming movies/music through Plex. I built it less than two years ago. I have two NVME drives that are still functioning fine, but the two internal 8tb hard drives I use for storing movies/songs/photos/etc have somehow disappeared. Up until this point, I'd had no problems at all with this PC.
At first both of my internal hard drives would appear in File Explorer, but when I clicked on the F drive, I would get the error message 'Not accessible. A device which does not exist was specified'. (The E drive was still working fine at this point).
I thought that maybe the sata cable was faulty, so I switched the two cables over. Then, the missing drive (F) re-appeared, but the other drive (E) now disappeared. So, I guessed it must just be a cable problem. So, I bought new sata cables, and tried them out, but now BOTH drives do not appear. (I have subsequently tried putting the old cables back in, but it hasn't made any difference).
At various times I have restarted the PC. Sometimes one of the drives appears in Disk Management. Looking at the hard drive in Disk Management I get a message telling me that I must initialize the disk. I tried to do that, but again I get an error message saying 'A device which does not exist was specified'.
I've tried a few different fixes (found on YouTube)
- I ran a malware scanner to see if I had picked up any viruses. Apparently it cleaned up a few 'threats', but nothing changed in regards to this problem.
- I tried to change the security permissions (as it seemed like I did not have 'full control' over the hard drive). However, I could not apply those permissions, getting the error message 'failed to enumerate objects in the container. Access is denied' / 'A device which does not exist was specified.'
- I tried rescanning the disks in Disk Management, but that did nothing- sometimes 1 hard drive appeared, sometimes neither hard drive appeared.
- I tried running checkdisk, but I get the error message 'cannot open volume for direct access'.
- I then tried 'unhiding' my drive using Group Policy Editor, but that did nothing.
- I also tried to update my drivers, but that also did nothing.
This problem is way beyond me! I feel like I've tried everything I could find online about this problem, and nothing seems to work. Does anyone here have any idea what the problem could be?
Thanks in advance for any help you could provide!
the other day we had a thunderstorm that went right over us and it took our router out. i assumed it was only the router, but when we finally got a new one, no ethernet cables would connect to my computer. when i look at the control panel, it says “disabled”. the port has a constant, unblinking yellow and orange set of lights. the entire pc is still working fine, and i got a usb adapter for the ethernet.
the wifi is working fine, so it’s not the router.
the problem is that this pc is extremely new, i literally built it less than a week ago. so i’m worried there are other unseen issues with it. is it likely that it’s just the ethernet port, or should i go ahead and replace the entire motherboard?
Hi everyone, recently I've been noticing my Aorus Xtreme 3090 has been getting very hot. With the auto fan setting, it reaches 84 degrees in some games. With a curve, it will reach just under 80.
My case is a corsair 570x. I have the side panel removed, and the front panel removed for better airflow. I am using some cheap corsair fans as case fans (3 ML120s) and the front SP120s I also have a 360mm aio mounted to the front.
Is my temperature something to really worry about?
Memory temps seem to be under 100°c
I am planning a case swap, can this fix my temperatures?
Basically what the title says, I powered off my computer and left the house for 3 days, come back and turn it on and its over 80 degrees. My computer is less than 2 months old, I did a scan and it doesn't seem to be a virus or anything like that.
I have a custom pc with and AIO cooler that has worked just fine for around 3 years. A couple weeks ago I left the pc to have dinner and when I came back I realized that the processor was not cooling (it stayed around 90C) even with everything closed.
I brought the pc to an assistance, they cleaned it changed thermal paste (both were not done for a long time) and it went back to working just fine.
Yesterday I left the pc in sleep Mode , when I came back and turned it on once again the same problem arised. Any suggestion on what could the problem be?
Open | Hardware With 4090 card needing ATX 3.0 will the new PSUs be available for people’s builds in time of 4090 release?
Just as the title says I mused am getting the 4090 but idk how I’m going to get a PSU ATX 3.0 in time for me to build my new rig when the only PSU I know of that’s releasing is Seasonics in mid December? Not sure if I can get something else in the meantime and return it for the new 3.0 standard.
How are they? I recently had a lot of problems with my CPU It is accompanied by a H410M-H V2 16 GB of ram and a 1050TI The main problem is that when I am playing, designing or rendering, the CPU from working at 4.78 GHz, goes down to 0.78 GHz and goes back to 4.30 GHz, like this without stopping until it stops working
Why is this? It's very serious? It has a solution?
I am expecting your answers, thanks!
Hi, I currently have a laptop with Intel 1240p and 8Gb of RAM. I'm planning to add addition RAM stick. Should an additional 8Gb be enough or should I go for an additional 16Gb of RAM? I primarily use this for practicing full stack web development where I'll parallelly run VisualStudio, SQL server and Docker. The laptop is also paired with GTX1650 so I use it for light gaming.
NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3050
Driver version: 516.94
AMD Ryzen 9 5900HX with Radeon graphics
15.41 GB RAM
1920 x 1080, 144HZ
(btw I disabled Vsync on all games and it still does 60 FPS cap)
(checked BIOS if it has wrong driver it's the right one)
Wired, razer mouse, Suddenly has disconnected while i wasn’t even on my computer (but heard a beep when it went off) the mouse seems to not be getting power but other devices will get power. Not sure what to do at this point, is the mouse just dead or is there anything i can do to make sure?
Edit: have tried other ports, same issue. Edit2: it did turn on for 3 minutes or so while i was studying then proceeded to do the same thing again.
My gaming laptops specs are:
GTX 1650 mobile
Intel core i5 10300h
I've always had a problem running games as they should be running. I was playing the remastered version of spider man the other day and I was getting around 45 fps on the lowest graphics. I watched a video about someone else playing the game on their laptop with a 1650 mobile, i5 10200h, and 16gb ram. They were running the game 60+ fps on much higher graphics. I remember the same thing happening when I installed battlefield 2042. I wasn't expecting it to run very well, but it ran horribly compared to a video I had watched with about the same specs, but I think they had 16gb ram. I need some help. Is it because I only have 8gb of ram? Or maybe a cooling issue? I don't know. Anything would be helpful, thanks!