Easiest (not necessarily best fix): With a thermostat such as a Nest you could install a satellite temp sensor in a room of your choosing and then decide which sensor to prioritize.

Jeg har en Bose Soundlink Mini 2 og har været ganske godt tilfreds.

True dat. Men i min optik er det et noget svagt argument mod diversificering. OP har formentlig også bolig og job i DK, så OP er 100% (?) eksponeret mod dansk økonomi.

Da jeg var 3 år gammel, fik jeg et trommesæt af julemanden til jul. Et par dage efter jul var trommesættet væk. Min mor sagde, at julemanden tog det tilbage, men gav ikke yderligere forklaring. Jeg har siden haft dybe ar på sjælen.

Relevans: det er ikke jul, så hvordan skal de komme af med det?

Årlrejt! Skulle måske have nævnt, at du skam ikke behøver at diversificere indenfor den samme konto. Fx har jeg 2 pensionskonti og et alm depot - 1 pensionskonto er US large cap 100%, 1 pensionskonto US small/mid cap + internationale, alm depot er mest enkeltaktier fra US og Asien. Overordnet set er det relativt diversificeret.

Ekstrem fokusering på det danske marked. Hvad med lidt S&P500?

OP, if you check the bottom of that screen, you’ll see that the assumption is a 6% annualized return. This is a somewhat conservative assumption, which at best is correct (for aggressive portfolio) if you assume the calculation is inflation-adjusted. Check out this compound interest calculator.

Peds/psych as low as $150k/year, surgical specialties/derm/ophthalmology “easily”$400-500k/year. A few physicians make $500-1000k/year. Average probably $300k (just guesstimating here).

True. I don’t care about RE, but what I don’t get is why most people don’t care about FI. If one thing has made a huge impression on me, it is that life can take a turn for the worse in an instant - the 30-something diagnosed with a terminal disease, the 40-something diagnosed with a chronic condition, limiting his/her ability to work partially or completely. FI means peace of mind - I will be ok no matter what, and more importantly my family will be ok if I’m no longer around.

Many docs are financially illiterate which may be why they’re underrepresented. Also, many don’t start making a high salary until mid-30’s. Many of my colleagues go straight for the million dollar house and expensive car while they’re not maxing out payments on their $200k+ student loans. Can’t remember the exact number, but a large minority of doctors in their 60’s have a net worth <$1mil, which should be “impossible” for individuals making $200-500k/year (or sometimes more).

Physician.

Frem for at "tage springet", er du sikker paa, at du har afproevet alle muligheder for at goere dit nuvaerende job taaleligt? Stress-reduktion, snakke med din chef om dine bekymringer, gaa paa deltid, skifte til anden arbejdsgiver etc?

Mere end en halvvering af din indkomst vil have store konsekvenser for din fremtidige livsstil og pensionsliv.

Because he was generalizing?

I used weed n feed and pre-emergent when I had a lot of this last year. However, I think overseeding with a winter lawn (which I did not do in 2019) had the biggest impact.

På deltid.

Does it not take longer (thus cost more) to "re-cool" a home than to maintain the temperature????

This is what OP asked. Logic/empirical data would show it is more cost-efficient to re-cool - but easy to test this hypothesis in a specific use scenario, since most energy providers give you access to day-to-day energy use.

Furthermore, no reason to be rude.

I’m in Phoenix. Lots of new homes here. I don’t know of anyone who can only cool their house 10-15 degrees below outside temp - that would make all the 100+ days very uncomfortable.

Regardless, how does any of this relate to OP’s question about efficiency/cost? My “data” clearly shows keeping the house cool all the time, even when you’re not there, is not cost efficient.

Lånte ca 230k, endte med samlet gæld på omkring 260k. Måske gør det mig ikke “dummere” end så mange andre i denne tråd, men det var nu ret tumpet, eftersom jeg havde et perfekt studiejob (let, relativt højt betalt, arbejde så meget eller så lidt, jeg ville osv), og jeg kunne jo have prøvet det der med at lægge et budget…. Efter 9 år er jeg nu nede på ca 130k - kunne betale det hele af, men renten er simpelthen for lav.

Mit nutidige pg meget økonomisk konservative selv ville have lånt lige så meget, men smidt det hele i indeksfonde frem for ligegyldigt forbrug.

I suspect you have an old unit. I live in a 2100 sqft house with a newish AC and leave the AC off when I’m away. I come home to ~86F in the Summer, and it takes 2-3 hours to cool to 74F.

Total energy use is about 30-40% lower on a weekday than a weekend day if I’m home most of the day. Clear evidence that keeping something cool is not more efficient than cooling something down.

Dansker i USA her - vaer glad for, at noget tilsvarende ikke findes i DK.

Hver gang man betaler sit kreditkort, huslaan, billaan, aabner konto, lukker konto osv, bliver det rapporteret til kreditbureauerne og paavirker derfor din score. Scoren har indflydelse paa din rente ved kreditkortbrug og almindelige banklaan. Men det er dog bullshit, for ved fx huslaan, saa foretager man den samme kreditvurdering, man ville foretage i Danmark (blot uden den famoese score), inkl. aarsopgoerelser, kontoudskrifter, gaeldsvurdering osv. Bureauerne hiver penge ud af folk og virksomheder, naar kreditreporten tilgaas. De bliver ofte hacket, hvilket kan have store omkostninger. En mulig positiv ting er dog at man kan "laase" sin kredit (fx i tilfaelde af identitetstyveri), saadan at ingen kan aabne konti osv paa eens social security number, men det omfatter saa ogsaa bare en selv.

I used to use a mason jar (30g medium ground coffee, 500ml water, in fridge 48 hours, then strain through Melita filter), but now I use Toddy to create a concentrate. This will usually last me two weeks (each drink about 1/2 concentrate, 1/2 water), one week if the missus joins in. I find it every bit as good as Starbucks or my local coffee shop.

Sure about the math?

80k per year is 5.7% (of $1.4 mil). Plus inflation of ~2%. You need at least 8% annualized growth which is certainly possible but might be too optimistic.

Excel. Fungerer glimrende.

Alle regninger og overførsler bliver betalt på datoer, der er spredt ud over måneden. Nogle regninger kan svinge med 100% eller mere efter årstiden (fx 800-1200/måned om sommeren og 300-400/måned om vinteren) og nogle regninger betales halvårligt (bilforsikring). I mit Excel-ark indsætter jeg den gennemsnitlige pris per måned per regning +1-2%, så er der aldrig “ballade på kontoen”.

Jeg “rebalancerer” en enkelt gang årligt, eller når en fast regning ændrer sig, og det tager ikke mere end et minut her og der. Derfor har jeg ikke brug for budgetprogram.

Tried it for 3 mo in Europe.

Ok for text, FaceTime audio, maps, email, but useless for most other things. If you have a device that supports esim, then check out Airalo.

Hvorfor? Det er et svar på OP’s spørgsmål. Skal man være enig med alle dem, der mener 10 mio DKK er tilstrækkeligt? Og hvis ikke, så tager man “fejl”? Nogle gange forstår jeg ikke mentaliteten her på subben.