Yes, he was born with a potato for a heart

I completely agree with that notion. MQTT packets are really small, there was barely any impact on my network.

I've been using a couple boards to monitor the mains and each branch (breaker) from https://circuitsetup.us/. They use esp32 to interface with the ATM90E32 chipset. Comes preflashed with a version of EMONs i believe but I reflashed with esphome to send the data to MQTT and HomeAssistant. It's been working great for almost a year now, couldn't be happier. I have the update interval set to 1s and get almost instant feedback when usage changes.

My dude, don't reinvent the wheel.

1. https://esphome.io/components/remote_transmitter.html#remote-setting-up-infrared
2. Z-wave light switches and HomeAssistant https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/zwave/
3. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/

The radar bulbs have built-in luminosity sensors. They only turn on when it's dark and motion is detected (dust to dawn). In my case, the closets were dark so they kept triggering all day because of my dog walking around downstairs, lol. Moved those bulbs to exterior scones and they're great for it. Back patio lights turn on at night when we're in the kitchen area, inside near the patio, or if something is walking around in the back yard near the patio. If the flood light PIR triggers and lights up the patio, the radar bulbs turn off due to the high output of the flood light.

Just as a warning, make sure the motion sensor is PIR and not radio radar. I found that while radio radar is much more reliable in triggering the light, it also can detect motion through doors, walls, and floors. The closets were lighting up upstairs when we were walking around underneath downstairs. With that said, they make great outdoor lights since they won't falsely trigger by ambient IR light outside.

EDIT: The bulbs are labeled 'radar' (microwave) motion sensing, not radio.

There's three levels of IoT devices you need to consider.

• Devices that are cloud connected which should have access to the internet (restricted to their specific platform). These should be restricted from connecting to anything else in your network.
• Devices that don't need internet access but are being polled locally. ESP8266/32 based controllers come to mind.
• Devices that need local and internet access. Chromecasts are an example, they need to be accessible by local devices to initiate the cast but require internet connectivity to fetch the content.

OP, highly suggest using the generic thermostat. Here's an example as a starting point:

climate:
  - platform: grow_thermostat
    name: Grower
    heater: switch.grow_heater
    target_sensor: sensor.grow_temp
    min_temp: 15
    max_temp: 25
    ac_mode: false
    target_temp: 20
    cold_tolerance: 0.3
    hot_tolerance: 0
    min_cycle_duration:
      seconds: 5
    keep_alive:
      minutes: 3
    initial_hvac_mode: "heat"
    precision: 0.1

Exactly, also a sweet $5000 Omega watch.

Identifying the actual public IP is narrowed down greatly by providing the first two octets, modem manufacturer, and ISP. Considering there it's a flat network with a TPlink A7, then it's likely uPnP is being used which is enabled by default on that router and a high vulnerability. The use case of an attack would be anything from cryptomining, botnet zombie, or even hijacking to host less-than-legal content or C2 relays. At worst, if he is a valuable target, he's getting his info and data gathered.

It is trivial. I just wanted to give a heads up to those looking at this and wanting to share their own.

I see a lot of people sharing their personal home network diagrams. That's cool and all but, as a security engineer, please don't include information like ip addresses. I understand the chances of being a target for an APT is low but better be safe.

I haven't tested it out but considered moving some 'alert' automations to use the alert integration.

Looking into it further, it may be possible to create a notify service using the REST notifier that would call the REST API of home assistant to call a service.

Bios passwords can be bypassed and encrypted hard drives can be reformatted... How is that a paperweight?

The button press might be too simple to hack around. Maybe add a sequence of numbers that need to be entered at an odd interval to keep them on their toes, say 108 minutes?

It's a nice view otherwise, how did you get the small headers above the buttons?

Just as a heads up, don't use this as a security feature to prevent users from going to settings (or other panels) if they have admin rights. Adding ?disable_ch to the end of the url disables the custom header.

What's your budget and how's your technical knowledge?

Jesus, all theses replies make me glad I stuck with DeWalt.

If you're already using z-wave, GE/Honeywell zwave dimmer switches work well for this. The 'non-controlling' switch would be a z-wave add-on switch. You would then group them together and the add-on switch would act exactly like the dimmer (hold to dim).

EDIT: My bad, i forgot the add-on doesn't actually add to the z-wave network. You connect the traveler to it and it mirrors the controlling switch.

This isn't possible in yaml.

Definitely is possible in yaml.

There's legitimate reasons to use a host file. Just because you can't think of any, doesn't mean that anyone that uses it doesn't know what they're doing.

I did a bluetooth speaker with aux input for a while and it kept going to sleep. See my previous post for my final solution.

Mine took some trial and error to get working reliably but the end result that's been working great is...

• mopidy - hassio addon to handle audio files and tts to the audio output on the pi
• aux cable run to a 12v powered amplifier that goes into a junction box (think home theater in wall amp)
• in-wall speaker hooked up to the amp like a regular speaker

The end result needed to be powered using the 12v battery backup that runs my "brain" (pi and various circuits for other home security things) in case the power goes out, i'll still have a notification of doors opening, "alarm about to be triggered" type alerts.

The speaker itself is mounted in a central location of the house and is mostly set to about 10% volume, it's definitely loud enough. I can also hook up a second speaker to the amp if i need to put another one in the garage.

Hard disagree. I have a computer engineering degree and the most complex courses I took were telecommunication courses (frequency modulation, baud rates, impulse response, fourier tranforms, etc). I have so much respect for anyone who can flourish in that field.