If you're just starting, you should hive mind into the Ender series because there are more of them out there, so you're likely going to get support easier. There are definitely better ones out there but it's a good start.

Check Canadian Tire, they have clamp on chargers for those lead acid batteries.

Those LEDs are getting grilled, but that's by design. They rely on the resistance of your batteries (and the wires) to limit current. When the light is on, they will pull the battery voltage down a bit, but it's still pretty high for a SMD LED. These things are mass produced so longevity isn't something they care about. You can manually add a resistor if you want, but buying another string when your LED string dies is probably easier.

Those look like SMD LEDs dipped in resin. Pretty standard part.

These are the thinnest LEDs I know of. They are literally SMD LEDs dipped in resin, I don't think you'll find anything more discrete.

These are usually custom made similar to a T-shirt. Try looking for any markings on it or if you can remember where you bought it from.

Well it's probably not the answer you were expecting, but printing PLA usually requires lower temps and therefore lower power loss. Also, an enclosure might help, but depending on the filament it might not be the best idea.

Check the spec sheet. Also check with your finger as a last resort.

Do you not have access to the filament end from the outside? On my spools there is a cutout where the filament starts getting wound where maybe 3/4 inch of filament is bent at a 90 degree angle. I don't have a filament runout sensor but I still usually cut the angled part off new spools because it might get stuck when the spool starts running out.

A flatheat screwdriver can help too, but try not stabbing yourself.

A junkyard is probably your best option.

You can use wire cutters to just snip off the final few inches

You can check if Techpowerup has a PCB shot of your exact GPU model, and solder (or find someone to solder) the component back the same way it was originally.

thiccboicum

u/allisonovo

u/allisonovo

u/allisonovo

I guess that's a total of 4 tho

I don't remember if you were a mod back when I first joined, but congrats for your return on the mod team u/allisonovo

It doesn't matter where you place the resistor in a single circuit. Think of it this way: if you have traffic going to work and none back home, or if you have no traffic in the morning and traffic in the afternoon, you spend the same "amount" of time going to (and back) from work. It's similar with resistors.

Probably one of these

Does it matter your infill looks terrible? If it prints fine I'd let it print shells over it, you can't see the infill anyways.

I'm getting close to 1000 awardee as well. Congrats.

It will probably work without that cap. If you run into stability issues, desolder the cap on the bottom of the flash chip and measure its capacitance, then buy some of the same size and value.

Edit: actually that might be RAM. It's been a while since I last used one of these.

Are you reading inductors in circuit?

Always practice on other dead electronics before doing it for real. Surgeons don't go the the operation room for a heart transplant if they've never done it before.

Also, depending on the size of your board and nozzle, you might need to preheat the board. You better get a temperature controlled heat gun to do these kind of work, wouldn't want to burn through your board.

I think you should invest on a resin printer since you already have two printers. A resin printer will allow you to create more intricate and delicate parts.

Could be either a diode or a neon indicators. Hard to know for sure.